Benidorm has long been a favourite seaside escape for the British. For decades it has carried a reputation shaped by package holidays, lively nightlife and endless sunshine, though until recently we had never actually visited ourselves. Like many people, we felt we already knew Benidorm through television programmes, travel stories and its larger-than-life reputation. A long bank holiday weekend with friends finally gave us the excuse to see it properly for ourselves.
What we found was exactly what Benidorm promises to be, energetic, unapologetically lively and surprisingly scenic once you step beyond the neon signs and karaoke bars.
A Delayed Start to the Weekend
The trip began with a slightly delayed departure, our flight eventually taking off around ninety minutes later than planned. The atmosphere onboard suggested nobody was particularly concerned about punctuality. The flight was packed with hens, stags and groups of friends already fully committed to the weekend ahead before the plane had even left the runway.
At one point the captain was forced to step in and ask certain groups to calm down a little, never usually a sign of a peaceful flight. Still, spirits remained high and eventually we landed on the Costa Blanca ready to experience Benidorm for ourselves.
First Impressions of Benidorm
Our first afternoon was spent exploring the Old Town, which immediately felt quite different from the image many people associate with Benidorm. Narrower streets, traditional balconies and small independent shops gave the area far more character than expected.
We wandered up towards the famous viewpoint known as the Balcón del Mediterráneo, perched on a rocky headland separating Levante and Poniente beaches. Historically this location was once home to a fortress built to defend the coastline from pirate attacks during the 14th to 16th centuries. Today, the whitewashed viewpoint offers panoramic views across the Mediterranean and down both sweeping beaches.
From there we gradually made our way towards the newer part of Benidorm along the promenade. The contrast was immediate. Everything was in full swing: fancy dress groups, packed bars, live music drifting out onto the streets and an atmosphere that felt permanently halfway through a celebration.
Benidorm has become one of Spain’s most recognisable resort towns partly because it embraces this energy completely. The city expanded rapidly during the tourism boom of the 1950s and 60s, transforming from a small fishing village into one of Europe’s best-known holiday destinations. Unlike many resorts, it also built upwards rather than outwards, giving Benidorm its unusual skyline of high-rise hotels and apartment blocks overlooking the sea.
We stopped several times along the front for drinks and a look around the shops, including the obligatory stop at Ale-Hop, impossible to miss thanks to the giant cow outside. Eventually we returned to our hotel rooftop bar, where the elevated views offered a surprisingly impressive perspective across the coastline.
Tapas Alley and Benidorm After Dark
That evening we headed into the Old Town once again, this time in search of Tapas Alley, one of the liveliest dining areas in the city. Officially known as Calle Santo Domingo, the narrow street is lined with tapas bars serving small plates alongside local wines and beers.
The atmosphere felt far more relaxed than the larger bars down by the beachfront. We settled in with glasses of Rioja, shared tapas dishes and spent the evening playing cards between rounds of food and drinks. It was one of those simple holiday evenings that somehow becomes one of the most memorable (or not, if you start on the shots!).
Later, inevitably, we found ourselves back down on the seafront where the music was louder, the bars busier and the dancing carried on well into the early hours - Unfortunately we can't share all of our photos of this, due to the famous saying "What happens in Benidorm, Stays in Benidorm!"
Benidorm, it turns out, commits fully to nightlife (just like us!).
A Slower Day in the Old Town
The following morning arrived with predictable consequences. Slightly sore heads meant a slower pace suited everyone perfectly.
We spent much of the day wandering the older areas of Benidorm, following the promenade and stopping occasionally at cafés for coffee, snacks and cold drinks. Away from the louder party streets, the town reveals a calmer side. Pensioners sat reading newspapers in shaded squares, families played on the beach and locals carried out their daily routines around the edges of tourism.
After more time spent on the rooftop enjoying the sunshine, we headed out for dinner before returning once again to Tapas Alley for more wine and cards. This time, wisdom prevailed and we called it a night at a sensible (ish) hour.
The Walk to Benidorm Cross
One landmark that had caught our attention throughout the trip: the large cross standing high above the city on the ridge of the Sierra Helada. Visible from much of Benidorm, it became one of those ideas that sounds excellent from a rooftop bar.
So we decided to walk to it.
The Benidorm Cross was originally erected in 1961 by Franciscan monks. According to local stories, it was intended partly as an act of religious symbolism after concerns that tourism and bikinis were encouraging immoral behaviour in the rapidly developing resort. Whether entirely true or slightly exaggerated over time, the cross has since become one of the city’s best-known landmarks.
The walk itself is steep, especially in the heat, but the views become increasingly impressive with every turn. From the top, the scale of Benidorm becomes clear, beaches stretching along the coastline, rows of skyscrapers and the Mediterranean extending into the distance.
On the way back down we stopped at an aptly named bar “The Last Bar Before The Cross,” where an ice-cold Fanta Lemon was arguably the best decision of the day. The tapas dishes were delicious and the staff were very friendly.
Back in town we drifted through the side streets browsing souvenir shops filled with endless variations of “I ❤️ Benidorm” T-shirts and "novelty" items before retreating to the rooftop pool for some much-needed cooling off.
That evening was exactly what a final full evening in Spain should probably involve - more tapas, Rioja and warm air lingering long after sunset.
Benidorm Island and an Unexpected Wildlife Encounter
On our final day we decided to take the boat across to Benidorm Island, located just offshore from the main beach.
We had heard somebody refer to it as “Peacock Island,” though after arriving it quickly became apparent that “Seagull Island” might be a more accurate description. There were hundreds of them, all loudly expressing their opinions simultaneously.
The island itself is a protected natural area and forms part of the Sierra Helada Natural Park. A walking path loops around the rocky terrain and offers fantastic views back towards the Benidorm skyline.
We started along the route enthusiastically enough, though things became slightly less relaxing once the seagulls began divebombing a family walking ahead of us. It soon became obvious why. Hidden amongst the brush were chicks and unhatched eggs, and the birds were aggressively protecting their nests.
At that point we collectively agreed the seagulls could keep the island. Instead, we retreated to the café for a drink, expressing how fortunate we had been in not getting hit with seagull droppings, before catching the boat back to shore.
The return journey unexpectedly provided one final highlight of the weekend. Out in the water, dolphins appeared alongside the boat, surfacing and jumping briefly before disappearing again beneath the waves.
A perfect way to end the trip.
Maps and Memories: Looking Back at Benidorm
Returning home, we did what we always do after these trips, we turned to the maps.
Benidorm’s transformation over the last few centuries is particularly fascinating when viewed cartographically. Historic maps show a much smaller coastal settlement centred around fishing and agriculture long before tourism reshaped the skyline entirely. It's fascinating to think how life was back then, with locals not knowing how their homes would become one of Europe's biggest holiday destinations.
Comparing older regional maps of the Costa Blanca with modern satellite views highlights just how dramatically the resort expanded during the mid-20th century. Yet despite the growth, the Old Town still preserves traces of the original settlement, especially around the church, harbour and Balcón del Mediterráneo.
It is easy to dismiss Benidorm as simply a party destination, but underneath the karaoke bars and cocktail deals sits a place with genuine history and a unique identity. It knows exactly what it is and makes absolutely no apology for it.
And honestly, that is part of the charm.